Lining a Hat with Velvet or Silk
Hat linings should be cut along the selvage; bonnet linings are best on the bias. Measure the depth of crown and allow two inches more in width, measure around the head line and allow one inch more in length. Bun a half-inch hem along one edge. Sew the lining on just within the turn of the crown, beginning at the hack, allowing a half-inch turning.
In a felt or straw the stitches may be taken through; have an even line of stitches one half inch long inside, with an invisible stitch outside; run the two ends neatly together. (See Fig. 21.) In a covered frame the lining is put in with a pickup stitch, not carried through; sew from inside the crown toward the outside. After the hat is trimmed baby ribbon is run into the lining hem, and it is drawn, up so it fits nicely down into the crown, and the ribbon is tied in a neat bow.
Silk Hats: When covering frames with silk of any kind, it is necessary first to cover the frame with a thin layer of sheet wadding cut to shape of hat just the same as the silk; baste it on, and bind the edge over the muslin bind with a narrow strip of the wadding. This enriches and improves the fit of the silk.
Quantity of Material Required: To ascertain the quantity of material required for any hat, to cover plain, measure the frame across at its widest diameter, from back to front, or side to side, according to the shape; it will usually take three times this of single-width material. For binds and folds allow double the width required on the bias.
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